Wednesday, August 11, 2010

August 11, 2010

To start off the blog up date this month, we thought it would be good to add a map of Africa to give some of you a better idea where we are. This probably should have been done when we first came here in July of 2008 because most often we are asked the question from people back in the states, "Where is Botswana?" Hopefully when you click on the map above, it will enlarge and you can see Botswana just above South Africa on the southern point of the continent. Recently Colin emailed a favorite aunt of his to explain a little about our life here. We decided that some of what he wrote to her would be nice to share with all of you who read this blog.

Colin says: "Most people have no clue where Botswana is. I think it is because they have never had a war here and don't make the news. We are surrounded by countries with mountains, but we are living in a country that is as flat as land can be. In Alaska, I was accustomed to queuing off mountains for navigation, but had to quickly learn to electronically navigate here. Most pilots feel that there is nothing to navigate by when looking at the ground but now that I have been here a while, and using my years of Alaska experience, I see many and varied assortment of landmarks. I must say that no hills makes for great hiking for this old guy!

Most of the infrastructures in Botswana (roads, buildings, government agencies, etc.) are brand new because of the sudden wealth created by the diamond, tourism, and cattle industries. The people are still learning how to use the money effectively though. Patience is the name of the game here. Taxes are also high, but much of the money that goes to the government does seem to return to the people through services and infrastructure. This government works hard for the people as opposed to some others around the world. A recent move to cars from donkey carts means that most drivers here did not grow up watching their parents drive around. First generation drivers are a problem.

There are challenges here like landing a plane and having herds of animals or elephants in the way. You don't trim brush or tree limps around the yard without checking for snakes first. It can also get very cold during the winter months of May through August in this desert county. On the other hand, September through November can be hot and dry much like Phoenix, AZ. After living in Alaska for over 30 years, the climate is really very pleasant and manageable.

The people are kind and gracious. You must wear a suit jacket and tie to weddings and funerals, even if they are a bit ragged. Little kids are not afraid of strangers, and can wander around with out risk of being molested. People are very polite, and in the two years we have been here I have never heard a curse word in public."

Perhaps Colin's comments above will help some of you understand our life in Botswana a little better. If you can tolerate reading another lengthy narrative, the article below about the town we live in really paints a picture of what we see everyday. Again, if you click on the scanned page it should enlarge for easier reading.

In a previous blogs, we have tried to portray some of the same points written in the article, only in our own words and by using pictures. Think back to some of the images we have shared through the months and years of thatched roof huts, donkey carts, and local people including the distinctive Herero women. We have posted other photos of everyday life in Maun including the "small shacks of street vendors" mentioned in the article above. In the photos to follow, we have attempted to capture some of the more modern pictures of daily life here.

The first snap shot is of the "bus rank" in the center of town. Bus travel is the most used public transportation for people in Botswana. Multiple buses are loading and unloading in a small area, with people everywhere. There are local shade shack vendors on the sidewalk mixed in with local businesses and shops.
The bus rank is really just a parking lot area and the photos do not even touch how busy and congested it gets there. Note the man on the roof of a smaller bus loading bags on top and the shade shack vendor selling bunches of oranges in the background of the next photo.
Across the main road from the bus rank area are small chain grocery and department stores seen all over Botswana. They have names like "Shoprite", "PEP", and "CB Stores".
Standing in the same spot by the bus rank, looking across the side road is a chain restaurant called "Nando's". See the large chicken on top of the building? That is what they specialize in.
Just past Nando's looking up the side street is a small shopping complex. There are no large malls like you find in the states. There are just a number of small complexes and shops spread out around town. It took us weeks of exploring, when we first got to Maun in August of 2008, to figure out where we could buy the things we needed.
As the article states that: "Maun's shops and street stores are a mixture ranging from modern, almost high tech," (that is a questionable statement by American standards), "to the more traditional". Below is a picture of about as "modern" as you will see around Maun when out shopping. The "Spar" store in the background is a grocery chain and the "Akerman's" is another small department store chain that is a bit more expensive than "PEP".

The author of Maun- A Strange Town closes by saying," If you are arriving in Maun for the first time, especially if it's your first visit to the country, then you might be taken aback to start with; Maun definitely isn't Paris or London..." That sums it up, but there is no other place we would rather be right now.

While driving around Maun or anywhere in Botswana for that matter, you will see people carrying large items or buckets of water on their heads. It is pretty amazing to see young children to old women packing and balancing heavy loads on their heads. This woman was walking along the road in town when Julie was leaving the Post Office.
So among all the hubbub that surrounds this small community, we continue to stay busy with our responsibilities to FMS and the operations of the Maun base, relationship building in a variety of areas, and direct ministry outreach. The information to follow reflects just a small sample of the activities we were involved with over the last month.

The 11th of July, we drove down to Gaborone so Julie could see a specialist about a thyroid condition that was discovered while in the states last April. Somewhere in the next few months, we will need to go to South Africa so that problem taken care of. While driving the 10 hours to Botswana's capital, we saw an average number of people driving donkey carts, but it was the first time we saw a sign warning drivers to be cautious of such transportation.
Our trip to Gaborone was brief, and after a full day driving on a Sunday we saw the doctor on a Monday, and drove the long drive back to Maun on a Tuesday. It was also the Kowalski's last week with us here before heading back to Canada on furlough. The flight schedule was rather slow, but there is always work to do. There was an important meeting that Keith and Colin attended at the airport concerning air space changes.
Thursday the 15th of July, we had a send off dinner for the Kowalski family and all the FMS Maun personnel and their families came. Our chief pilot from Gaborone, and two medics were also able to attend while based here temporarily.
After the large and filling meal, the Cressman's , Colin, and a few others lingered around the "braii" pit in our yard.
Saturday morning on the 17th of July, the FMs team was at the airport to see the Kowalski's off. Also, Pastor Alex from our church was there and we were able to send them off with lots of hugs and prayers.
Julie got her share of hugs from the kids also.

The snap shot below is a great photo of all the FMS Maun team, except Matt who was preparing for a flight. He said his good-byes out on the ramp.
July 24th was Misheck's 39th birthday. He invited us over for a small celebration with some of the Zimbabwean members from our church. Julie baked him a large chocolate cake.
After we all sang happy birthday, the cake was cut by his wife Debra with help from baby Briane on her back.
Once the cake was distributed there was congratulation speeches, singing, and a good time of fellowship.
Misheck and Colin
These two sisters come to church regularly with their Zimbabwean parents, and are part of the Sunday school group Julie has been working with.

Some of the other regular Sunday school students are pictured in the photos below. Ontiretse (left) and her little sister, never miss a Sunday.

Below is the early bird gang warming up in the sun on a cold winter morning.
It is winter now, and cold in the mornings so the children bundle up to be at church by 9am.

Colin continues to fly regularly and it has been very busy since to end of the World Cup games in South Africa.
Above is the Kasane Airport in Northern Botswana with the Zambezi River in the background and the Chobe River in the fore ground.

Below is a closer shot of the Chobe River (fore ground) joining the Zambezi River.


The third week of July, Colin was in Gaborone while the C210 was having the 100 hour inspection. Another charter came up and he was asked to fly a person to the Orapa diamond mine for a meeting. Above is the Orapa runway. It services the Orapa diamond mine. Orapa is a closed community due to the mine activity. People need special clearance to go there.

Below is the big hole, the Orapa Diamond mine.

Devango and Nicoline continue to grow consistently in their relationship with Christ and are now formally engaged. Hopefully they can save enough money by the middle of November, to have a small gathering with a few close relatives and the church family. Julie and her friend Angela have been helping them with the planning.
While teachers and students in the states are preparing to start a new school year, the children here are now 2/3rds through completing their school year. Term 2 ends this week and the students will get one month off before starting Term 3. They will be finishing their school year in early December. Last Monday was the last Bible Club for this term. With the thoughtful care boxes sent to us from friends in the states, Julie was able to give out special treat bags to all the kids that have faithfully been attending. The group has not only grown in the number coming each week, but they have also shown great growth spiritually.
All the kids wanted a picture taken to say thank you to all that have helped to support this portion of our ministry.
Pusetso was in Maun for a short visit last week. She came by the office to visit with her daughter and sister. After her husband (Robert our porter) passed away in April, she moved back to the village of Sepopa north of Maun to live with her mother. It was really good to see her. Despite all the hardship in her life over the last few months she has continued to find comfort in the Lord. In her village, she has been participating in regular Bible studies but shared that Bibles are in short supply there. We were able to give her some Setswana Bibles to take back with her. It has been such a blessing to have received Bibles through the Flying Mission Care ministry in Gaborone. As we see needs arise, they have been being distributed through out our region.
Other blessings from the Flying Mission offices in Gaborone were visitors. Pictured below is Sheila from the HR department (right) with her friend Chelsea (center),who was visiting from Canada. Jessica (left) and Julie had a lovely lunch together with the visiting ladies by the river during one of the few days they were here.
Another visitor from Gaborone was Tina Kort, who coordinates initial ministry and cultural orientation for Flying Mission. She was traveling through Maun with two long time friends also from Canada. The three of them were able to take a scenic flight with Colin one evening, before departing early the next morning.
Flying Mission has also hired a new pilot that had been flying for another air service in Maun the last few years. Tuan Van Dyke has temporarily joined our team in Maun while Keith is on furlough. Eventually, Tuan will be moved to the Gaborone base to co-pilot in the King Air twin engine planes there. Tuan will be staying in one of the flats on our property for the next few months. He is pictured below.

Since there are no wild animal photos to share with you this month, we have included this picture of a friend's "leisure dog" just for fun. Jessie looks like so many of the other "Tswana" street dogs. As a stray puppy, friends of ours took her home as a pet and you can see that she is living the good life now. Notice the magazine on the sofa is a "House and Leisure" addition.
And if we are speaking about dogs, we must not leave out a photo of our overly friendly guard dog Red. She is pictured below enjoying the warmth of a sunny spot by flowers that continue to blossom even in mid winter.
Once again in closing we want to say thank you so much for your friendship, prayers, words of encouragement, gifts, and interest in what we are doing here.

"The glory of friendship is not the outstretched hand, nor the kindly smile, nor the joy of companionship; it is the spiritual inspiration that comes to one when he discovers that someone else believes in him and is willing to trust him." -- Ralph Waldo Emerson

Wednesday, July 7, 2010

July 7, 2010

Each day, each week, each month here seems to breeze by so quickly. It is the middle of winter now, and through June and into July the river water has consistently continued to rise. The rivers branching from the Okavango are even much higher than last year and the current levels have not been this high in decades. Flooding has slowly been taking place in many areas including Maun. This time last year, the Kowalski's, our FMS team mates had to move into the flats next door to us when their property flooded. Now in just a little over a week, they will be heading back to Canada for 3 to 6 months. They are really on loan to FMS from Mission Aviation Fellowship, and their main mission organization wants them back in Canada for a few months. We have truly enjoyed working and fellow-shipping with them over the past year. There will be a hole in our lives until they return....

A weekly highlight for Julie continues to be teaching Bible Club. During the first week in June, we were blessed with a visiting YWAM team (Youth With A Mission) of young adults from a variety of nationalities. They were eager to help with Bible Club one week, and the students enjoyed the role play activity of the Old Testament Bible story explaining the obedience and faith displayed by Shadrach, Meshech, and Abednego. (Daniel 3) Note the blackboard with the fire drawn on it.

Below, the team and some of the students are role playing the three Bible characters in the furnace with the Lord, while the fire is so hot that the guards outside the furnace die from the heat. The students and Julie really enjoyed the team, and their creative contribution to the awesome children attending Bible Club.

Julie enjoys teaching new songs to the group attending Bible club, and the kids are fascinated with the flannel graph stories she is using to teach Biblical principles they can apply to their daily lives.
It has also been a pleasure for Julie to team with her good friend and fellow teacher, Angela, in leading the children to trust and love the Lord with all their "heart, soul, and mind." (Matthew 22:37)
The middle of the month was full of celebrations and celebrities. The first celebration was in honor of Cheryl's birthday, and a few of her closest friends along with Julie organized a brunch at Island Safari Lodge on her special day.

After a lovely meal, there were even birthday cheese cakes! Everyone had a memorable time of celebration and fellowship that day. All of the ladies will be missing Cheryl while she is away in Canada.

That same week-end we were invited to attend a Joe Jonas concert at the All Nations Village Church. He was visiting Botswana youth in the area to promote abstinence before marriage. We must confess that we had no idea who he was, but apparently Joe is one of three musical celebrity brothers from the states. It appeared by the response from the crowd, that he must be quite popular. Colin was even asked at one point to be a bouncer if the crowd got out of hand. There were no problems though, as the people of Botswana tend to be very mannerly and even the excited youth stayed in their seats.

The next day, Joe, his hosts in Maun, and his attendants who included a very large body guard, all chartered one of Flying Mission Services twin engine King Air planes to fly out to the Okavango Delta for a sight seeing safari. Below is a picture of Patricia and MT with Joe as they assisted the group through the airport to the plane.

A few days later, the Joe Jonas group was flown back in to Maun to attend a large celebration hosted by a local wildlife conservation trust. The presentation of a creative sports program for school age children that promotes respect for self and wildlife, was by invitation only. We were invited to attend along with one of the FMS Gaborone pilots, Peter, who had been flying the Jonas group around Botswana. The picture below was taken at the sports stadium with the children sitting behind the stage.

Peter sat with us in the stands, and through his few days visiting in Maun we delighted in getting to know him better. Peter (pictured below) and his family, have just been in Botswana for 3 months, and Peter is on a leave of absence for Alaska Airlines to serve with FMS.

Through out the day, there were speeches by local and government leaders in addition to demonstrations by the school children of soccer skills they have learned in the program. Then the director explained how the skills are tied into the knowledge of animal behavior. In between speeches and activities Joe Jonas, entertained the large crowd in attendance.

Highlighting the event was the special guest speaker, Prince William, seen below. With such a high profile celebrity at the event there were lots of reporters and security personnel, along with British dignitaries from the embassy in Gaborone. We felt rather privileged to be among the invited guest and to represent FMS at the affair.

The following week-end Colin finally had more than one day off at a time since our return from the states, so we headed out of Maun for a few days. Friends of ours have owned a large game farm for a number of years about 90 minutes drive from Maun, and we had been invited out to visit. Colin often flies over the property in his comings and goings to Jack's Camp on charters. The farm is pictured below from the air. The loop of sand road is where the main camp is, and the rest is just wild open country.

Not only did we enjoy the time spent with our friends, but it is so pleasant to be out in the bush with all it's rugged beauty and wildlife. We were in need of that tranquility. While sitting on the ground by a water hole, Colin was approached by the female Steenbok pictured below. (Water hole story to follow.)

We so value being in the bush, and have come to appreciate the birds singing and fluttering around everywhere. Blue Waxbills and hundreds of other small birds (below) decorate the trees like Christmas ornaments.

Guinea Fowl wander out of the bush to the water hole acting much like small turkeys.

Greeves Starlings and others take turns for a morning bath.

Colin says: "Julie and I were privileged and generously invited to a friend's thirty square mile ranch east of Maun for a few days rest. The rancher raises wild game such as kudu, gemsbok, eland and other plains game for the local meat market and specialty restaurants in our area. During this resent visit, my friend decided it would be a good idea to harvest a kudu, also known as the gray ghost, or eland for ourselves to share for the meat. The animals were especially wary because of the two lions that recently got through the fence and were making their presence known. With the winter dry bush, my feet made a lot of noise crunching the leaves as we tried to stalk and sneak through the brush. All the kudu and eland I saw were fleeing well ahead of us. On the last morning, I elected to sit in a blind eight feet above the ground watching a water hole about a fifteen minute walk from the camp. I was in the blind thirty minutes after light. One does not walk to the water hole in the dark... leopards, you know.
From six thirty until nine o'clock I watched a non stop parade of small critters like mongoose, steenbok, warthog, and at least twenty-five different types of birds. By nine o'clock the sun had come up enough to be warm and helped set the stage for a nap. As my eye lids slowly opened for one last look I was startled to see six kudu in the water hole looking up at the blind. Finally seeing a kudu (elk size animal) standing still, and with a final chance for much needed meat, I was determined to stay calm and cool...but it was not to be. The smoother I tried to be moving the rifle to the blind window, the shakier I got. That kudu was looking straight at me with his eyes getting bigger every moment! When I did shoot I was ecstatic to see him drop in his tracks, but that good feeling lasted only moments when I realized I'd also dropped him in the middle of the water hole!
In Alaska it is a major sin to shoot a moose in the water, as that involves skinning and butchering the entire beast in ice water. Ahhhh Africa! A quick walk back to camp brought the guys with a truck to tow him out and bring him to camp.

Having bumped into numerous elephant in the bush, some as close as 10 feet away, I find them exciting but not especially intimidating. How can it be that kudu are more intimidating than elephants?"

Not only was the peace and solitude of the bush invigorating, but it was a much needed retreat after 6 weeks of being extremely busy after our return from the states. Also, our share of the animal will keep us in meat for a while, which is a tremendous blessing!

Each month, people come and go from our home as they stay with us for different reasons. Sometimes, it is FMS personnel from Gaborone like Peter and the two other pilots, in addition to the chief pilot, who were here in June. Other times, there are a few different missionary friends we have made from the out lying villages that need accommodation while doing business in Maun. We do not always mention that area of hospitality and help that we feel is a large part of Christian service that we have done while living here. Providing hospitality is just one way we can share what we have with those the Lord brings to us.

At the end of the month we were excited to finally meet a friend of our oldest son, who had contacted us about traveling in Botswana after attending the World Cup games in South Africa. He was traveling with his parents, girlfriend of ten years, and a childhood friend that he grew up with in Kenai, Alaska. Ted now lives in Portland, Oregon, and that is also where our son Zachary is living. After months of emailing, the group was able to share two nights with us before heading off to the Moremi Game Reserve. They will eventually weave their way through Chobe National Park in northern Botswana, before crossing into Zambia to see Victoria Falls.

It was great to have visitors from the states and briefly show them some of what we have come to love about the people and area around Maun. Our first stop was to our neighbor's basket shop where they found many exquisite baskets that our dear neighbor weaves.

There was also another local woman helping in the shop that day, and she gave us all a brief lesson in basket weaving. It takes weeks of work to create each basket.

Later in the day, a scenic flight was arranged with FMS so they could get an aerial view of the Okavango Delta and many of the wild animals living there.
The next day, the group did a boat ride up the Thamalakane River to the Boro River, where they transferred to mokoros as their mode of transportation. Mokoros are flat bottomed, canoe type boats that are quietly poled along the river by the local people. After returning mid-afternoon, the group did a few more last minute errands in Maun before they loaded up in their rented 4x4 to drive into the bush. The plan was to camp just outside the park boarder not far from Maun.

The large Land Cruiser they rented in South Africa, came fully equipped and carried two pop-up tents to sleep in on the top of the truck. We have repeatedly extended an open invitation to anyone of you willing to venture over here to see us, and maybe seeing some of these photos will act as a catalyst to motivate you.

Other than the activities mentioned above, our day to day life continues to revolve around relationships and service to others through our work with FMS. Much of our time is spent at the airport, preparing for flights and meeting people from all over the world as they come to experience the beauty of God's creation here in Botswana.

Entrance to the Muan terminal pictured above. Colin on the airport apron with the Cessna 207 on a rare cloudy winter day pictured below.

The change for us in moving to Botswana has been an amazing experience, and Colin has treasured the challenges and experiences added to his lengthy flying career. He is pictured below, high over Africa and hard at work in the Cessna 210.


One of the greatest joy to our lives each day, each week, and each month have been the children that surround us, especially those coming to the church we attend. Julie has been encouraged by the large number of children motivated to learn more about God's love through the Sunday school program that she has been helping to coordinate. Colin loves to build relationships with the children before and after church by just showing them attention and loving them.

Part of Colin's church gang before Sunday school pictured above. Right now lemons are in season on trees around town, and the local kids pluck them from the trees on the way to church. They eat them (with a perfectly straight face) during the service as we would eat an orange.

Colin's "grandbaby" Briane (Misheck and Debra's boy) at church pictured below.

We feel so fortunate to have found a loving church family, and look forward to each week when we can grow closer to the Lord and each other in our time of fellowship there. As we celebrate the end of our second year serving here in Botswana, and look forward to what is in store for us during the next two years, we want to once again give thanks for so many friends and family both far and near that have deeply blessed and enriched our lives. It is our hope in just being open and available in whatever and whoever the Lord brings into our lives each day, each week, and each month that we too can be a blessing just as we have been blessed.